2021 ingredient heroes

2021 Ingredient Heroes

Ingredients that matter

There are many different products on the market today with a variety of different ingredients to target skin conditions, but choosing the right one for your skin can be a challenge. Not only do we need ingredients to be safe but it is essential that they deliver the results we are looking for.

The best starting point is to identify skin concerns that you would like to target, this can be done with the help of your professional skin therapist and decide on a personalised skin care regimen that not only works with your skin but fits your lifestyle as well.

Understanding the top skin concerns

Dehydration

This is a condition that affects most skins and not only does it leave the skin feeling tight and dry, but it also contributes to the look of dull, devitalized skin. Dehydration is a lack of moisture in the skin and due to this, various processes in the skin can become affected, such as cell regeneration and effective barrier protection against our external environment.

Top ingredients to combat dehydration:

Hyaluronic acid is one of the most incredible ingredients that has ever been used to hydrate the skin. The main benefits of Hyaluronic Acid is to increase hydration and moisture within the skin. It also has the ability to hydrate and plump up sagging skin and restore fullness to facial folds as Hyaluronic Acid holds 1000 times its weight in water.

Phyto oils or plant derived oils are not only great sources of antioxidants that reduce inflammation from free radical damage, but different oils contain blends of vital lipids such as essential fatty acids, gamma linoleic acid, phytosterols and ceramides. These ingredients increase the level of hydration by reducing trans-epidermal water loss or moisture loss to the environment and reinforcing the skin’s natural barrier function.

Ageing

There are a number of lifestyle influences that can contribute to accelerated ageing, such as UV exposure, pollution, lack of sleep and even stress to name but a few. Cell renewal in the skin slows down, contributing to a dull devitalized skin tone, while structural changes such as loss of collagen and elastin contribute to lines, wrinkles and even skin sagging.


Top ingredients to fight against accelerated skin ageing:

Retinol, or pure Vitamin A, belongs to the family of compounds called retinoids. Retinoids help boost collagen production, increase cell turnover and accelerate skin renewal to even out discoloration and smooth the skin. The most powerful effects of retinoids are on collagen, the structural foundation of our skin. Retinoids have a dual effect here: they not only help to decrease the amount of collagen breakdown from sun exposure by preventing the rise of enzymes that break down collagen structures, but also help to stimulate the production of new collagen and Hyaluronic Acid synthesis.

Peptides have been studied for more than 50 years, and are one of the most popular Cosmeceutical ingredients in skin care products. Peptides occur naturally in the body and like proteins, peptides are composed of amino acids. Peptides are able to enter the cells of the skin and remain intact, they communicate with and direct the skin cells to behave in a certain way. Peptides have various benefits such as, stimulates more collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid production to strengthen an ageing skin.

Pigmentation

It is reported that 90% of the world will have sun-induced age spots by the time they are 60 years old. Skin discoloration and sun spots are perceived as “aged skin”, yet a more luminous and brighter skin is perceived as healthier and younger. Pigmentation can be contributed to UV exposure, hormonal changes, inflammation and even medication.

 

Top ingredients for brighter skin:

Vitamin C, also known as Ascorbic Acid has been used for many years to control melanin/pigment synthesis. Skin care formulas that use Vitamin C for its benefits deeper in the skin, like boosting collagen production, reducing inflammation and regulating melanin/pigment production, need to be correctly prepared and packaged to keep its integrity. Many products include stabilized forms of Vitamin C. Not only do these types of Vitamin C maintain their potency but they can be time release, and penetrate deeper into the skin. They also act as antioxidants, inhibiting oxidation steps involved with the production of melanin, resulting in a brighter, more even skin tone.

Hydroxy acids, such as Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid, have generally been utilized to accelerate shedding and removal of pigmented dead skin cells. However, a 5% concentration of Lactic Acid has been shown to inhibit the formation of the Tyrosinase enzymes involved with pigment production, thereby slowing the process of melanin/pigment synthesis. This approach to controlling melanin synthesis is unique to Lactic Acid and does not occur with other hydroxy acids.

Acne, breakout prone skin

Adult acne generally falls into two categories: 1. Adults with persistent acne are experiencing a continuation or relapse of acne from adolescence into adulthood and middle age and are generally mild to moderate in severity. 2. Late-onset acne, generally 25 years old and above, can happen to everyone irrespective of prior acne conditions during teenage years and lesions tend to be inflammatory, with fewer comedones/blackheads than adolescent acne. Both acne categories more frequently affect women and are often associated with inflammation, pigmentation and scarring, which can be perceived as prematurely aging skin. Breakouts tend to occur along the mandibular region (mouth, chin and jaw line), the sides of the neck, and sometimes the chest.

Salicylic Acid is a popular choice for acne prone skin. It is the main type of BHA and is a derivative of aspirin. It promotes exfoliation, which dissolves dead skin cells layer by layer. Because this acid is also lipophilic in nature, it penetrates through sebaceous/oil gland secretions on oily skin conditions effectively and can act deep inside the follicles, preventing blockages that lead to breakouts.

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a water-soluble B vitamin. It assists in regulating sebaceous gland secretions, fights free radical activity, reduce inflammation and boost the skin’s antimicrobial lipids to fight bacteria and balance the skin’s microbiome.​

Sensitivity

Sensitive skin is everywhere and nearly half of the global population describes their skin as sensitive or very sensitive. That’s because sensitive skin looks and feels different for everyone, with various causes such as hereditary, environment and lifestyle, even pollution exposure. This could lead to redness, inflammation and even burning, stinging skin.

Colloidal oatmeal in modern studies has shown to bind to the skin and provides a protective barrier against irritants. It contains water-binding polysaccharides (long chain sugars) and hydrocolloids that hold moisture against the skin allowing it to act as an emollient. The lipids contained in oatmeal also add to its emollient activity, which can improve the itch of dry skin. Oatmeal has a range of other components that exhibit antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.

Botanical extracts, nature’s pharmacy has many great solutions for sensitive skin. They are rich in flavonoids, polysaccharides and vitamins and provide a range of barrier restoring and sensitivity reducing benefits. They reduce neurogenic inflammation, boost hydration levels, soothing the skin while reducing redness and irritation.

Incorporating ingredients that specifically target your unique skin concerns, together with a good skin care regimen, will ensure the skin is functioning at an optimal level, delivering you your healthiest skin yet.